“Soon the world will be color-mad and Lumière will be responsible.” — Alfred Stieglitz, 1907
These words announced the arrival of the autochrome, the color process invented by the Lumière brothers that not only transformed photography, but also recorded the transition of fashion from Edwardian elegance toward a liberating modernity.
The Color of Clothes celebrates the unique beauty of the autochrome in 370 images that reflect the broad sweep of its usage. Couturiers embraced the way the process showcased their exquisite designs to luminous perfection—among them Fortuny, Poiret, Doucet, Vionnet, Lucile, Chanel, and Lanvin. Beyond the sphere of fashion, there are also examples from the Salon du Goût Français, France’s “virtual” autochrome exhibition of luxury items, and Albert Kahn’s Archives de la Planète, a bold attempt to record the world’s cultures in autochromes.
Some of the photographers involved may be famous in their field—Lartigue, Stieglitz, Steichen—though very often they are lesser known, and many are women who took to the process with panache. Whoever they were, they helped to immortalize one of photography’s historic moments, when the camera first revealed the world of fashion as it was—in color.
Contributors
Cally Blackman
Author
Cally Blackman is a fashion historian, lecturer, and author. Her research into autochromes is both original and extensive, with a large number of images she has sourced that have either never or very rarely been published since they were taken more than one hundred years ago.
